sanding clear coat

[Happy Hours]

can I get some 1000g sand paper and sand some rough clear coat and re-clear coat that area?

[Ironhead]

absolutely. when I shoot new clear, I actually wet sand it with 1000, then 1500, then 2000 before using the rubbing compound and polishing compound

[Happy Hours]

Sorry but I'm new at this and I missed where to clear coat,after all the sanding and before the compound and polishing?


Thanks

[Ironhead]

ok, sand your old clear. but just enough to get rid of any imperfections. then shoot your new clear.
after that cures go thru the wetsanding and polishing

if your current clear is just a little rough, then just wetsand it and polish it

[Happy Hours]

That's what I thought.

I've got a couple places that are in bad shape and they are the places I want to fix.

Thanks again.

[Ironhead]

just be careful sanding near any edges or corners, bends, etc

[Crocodile56]

I'll add one thing......if your doing just spots on the tank......sand the whole tank and feather the bad spot edges into the good finish.

A 1" bad spot would have like a 3 to 4 inche feather around the bad spot.

[Ironhead]

good point Croc

[Happy Hours]

no tank issues

front forks and around derby cover area mainly

[Happy Hours]

here's a pic of the forks

[Crocodile56]

You make me laugh!!!

The problem you have is common, caused by 3 things mainly, 1 stones and chit hitting the forks while riding , 2 oxidation on the aluminum and 3 poor up keep, very few people maintain their forks right!

I looked at the picture very closely and it looks like #1 and #2 got ya and sanding it out ain't gonna help until ya get the oxidation out of the aluminum!

I do it with OOOO steel wool and a piece of cloth 2" X !4" to 16" long, I spray glue on the cloth and let it tack for 10/15 minutes, then take the steel wool and roll it out on the glued cloth so its flat on the cloth. Cover all the glue! Place a heavy flat object on it for 30 minutes and let it set up! Then I take the cloth with the steel wool on it and start shining up the tubes! This will remove all the clear and oxidation in one step, you will need to do the fender bolt nubs with your finger and steel wool, WEAR GLOVES, and just polish the chit outta it until its shines like the sun! Blow all steel wool outta your seals with comp. air! Don't wash it out, rust will form really fast!

Give me 20/30 minutes and I'll post some how to pictures! Better make that about 45 to 60 minutes.......just opened a beer....:chugger

[Crocodile56]

Okee Dokee, two pictures didn't come out so lets wing it!

1. OOOO steel wool and Spray glue
2. Cut cloth
3. Glue cloth to wool,Brown paper slotted pass cloth through sao only get glue where needed!
4. Heavy weight
5. Well make believe dirty fork, sorry keep my chit clean!
6. Placement of cloth, work back and forth, up and down.
7. Above untouched, below 30 sec. polishing.
8. You can see a slight difference, but like I said I keep my chit clean!
9. You can finish with rosin and polishing wheels, white for aluminum>

[Happy Hours]

Thanks Croc,looks like a good way to clean them up.

[Ironhead]

sorry HH, I thought you was talking about clear on tins. on aluminum, the problem is that any small chip or crack in the CC can allow corrossion and worming. best thing is like Croc said, strip the clear off the aluminum and keep it polished

[Happy Hours]

Did a little work on the tubes yesterday and I think I can get them back into shape.Would have been easier if the previous owner would have cleaned them once in a while but I anyway there mine to worry about now.

here's a pic of the easy non-brake side