Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Brake pad materials

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Brake pad materials

    Ziderman's thread got me thinkin'... I've been pricing brake pads for the Sporty lately, and there're several options just at J&P.
    What's best? "Organic", "Sintered" "Kevlar"...

    Anybody tried all three?

    Opinions..?
    :read
    What the Hell is sintered, anyway..?
    Official Herd Dumbass
    (Ask anybody)

    MONK
    Crocified '07 XL1200C
    Herd #34

  • #2
    Originally posted by Monk View Post
    Ziderman's thread got me thinkin'... I've been pricing brake pads for the Sporty lately, and there're several options just at J&P.
    What's best? "Organic", "Sintered" "Kevlar"...

    Anybody tried all three?

    Opinions..?
    :read
    What the Hell is sintered, anyway..?
    Well Monk, when the subject of brake pads comes up, I usually run like the wind because so many opinions exist. But I'll take a stab at it.
    As you know, pads come in many different grades, depending on the type of application your using them for.

    For example, a plain jane organic pad is considered bottom of the line, and not stock quality in many cases. I tend to avoid these grades due to rapid wear, and higher dust creation tendencies.

    Now a sintered pad, ( big fancy name for how the pad is pressed for hardness, and with specific compounds to achieve that hardness ) is used in many more applications for moderate to more aggressive riding, and provides good performance, and low residue. And may include metallic compounds and ceramic as well. (WARNING) These pads are designed primarily for use with stainless rotors, as the pad material is technically harder than cast iron...

    (It may be wise to note that some folks report rotor damage from the use of these pads, when not using a true stainless steel rotor.) !!!

    Now the kevlar speaks for itself. It's damn hard and wears like iron, but has less of a hardness factor than sintered, and many people report that it takes more brake pressure to use these pads.
    Known as (para-aramid sythetic fiber, also called nomex ) This is a good pad for all around use, and should provide good service if you prefer a "softer" feeling brake action.

    My personal use of pads has always been a mid-grade, as they wear well, dont squeak, and produce little dust. And the rotor will live to tell about it...(kevlar will work best if you do not have stainless rotors). NOTE: I avoid base line organic pads like the plague.......they are a dust factory.....

    Bear in mind i'm not a brake professional, and you should do a bit of research to determine the best pads for your use......but mid-grade metallic or kevlar is what I prefer.

    I hope this helps you out a bit.......g
    Last edited by gruss; 07-26-2010, 07:24 AM.
    U.S. Army "Retired"
    (Disabled Veteran)

    Comment


    • #3
      Gruss hit it pretty much right on the head........it is a personel thing, I stick with organic pads myself! As close to OEM as possible.
      OLD SKOOL BIKERS RULE, WE DO WHAT IT TAKES AND LIKE IT!!!
      With age comes wisdom, yeah right!
      FIRST "HERD BIKE OF THE MONTH CLUB MEMBER"
      RIP Rick.....Ride On Forever In Our Hearts My Brother!

      Comment


      • #4
        So are Harley rotors stainless?
        The hardest part about a Zombie Apocalypse, will be pretending I'm not excited!

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by JimP View Post
          So are Harley rotors stainless?
          To the best of my knowledge no......many bikes come stock with a rust resistant zinc alloy rotor. I do know that many of the high end factory bikes now use stainless, I.E. road king etc. and I do know my sporty does "not" have stainless rotors.

          Well, now I'm confused a bit. I just did some more rotor material research, and I keep getting numbers like 90 percent are either 410, or 420 stainless steel....

          I'll keep doing the homework on this issue, as I dont want to steer someone down the wrong path with respect to brake pads etc.

          I'll post up the results as I find them.......g
          Last edited by gruss; 07-26-2010, 07:40 AM.
          U.S. Army "Retired"
          (Disabled Veteran)

          Comment


          • #6
            Okay folks, It seems we have some confusion with regard to rotor materials, and also the years they were used.
            Based on what I can find, "MANY" stock brake rotors are a high carbon, hardened steel rotor produced as an alloy for rust prevention.

            Most bikes now come stock with stainless rotors, as this eliminates many of the corrosion problems found in the carbon steel, and old school iron rotors of years past.

            Perhaps more people can post up who have a better knowledge of brake rotors etc. and we can add it to this thread for all to know.

            I'm not affraid to admit I've been beat..........as my rotor knowledge has just been expended........g
            U.S. Army "Retired"
            (Disabled Veteran)

            Comment


            • #7
              I'm thinkin' the simple answer is Kevlar pads... they're good brakes by all accounts, not too much dust, durable, not hard on the rotors and they seem to cost a lot less.
              My current pads appear to be at a little less than 50%, not urgent but this is another maintenance point I'm addressing.

              Thanx to all for the great input. Here and in the A/C thread below, the search for a better seat and the tires a few weeks ago.

              The HERD Rawks!!

              Err... how long does a Sporty clutch last, theoretically..?









              **Note to Mods**
              Has anyone ever before in this site's history hijacked their own thread?
              Another first for the Monkey!
              Last edited by Monk; 07-26-2010, 09:01 AM.
              Official Herd Dumbass
              (Ask anybody)

              MONK
              Crocified '07 XL1200C
              Herd #34

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Monk View Post
                I'm thinkin' the simple answer is Kevlar pads... they're good brakes by all accounts, not too much dust, durable, not hard on the rotors and they seem to cost a lot less.
                My current pads appear to be at a little less than 50%, not urgent but this is another maintenance point I'm addressing.

                Thanx to all for the great input. Here and in the A/C thread below, the search for a better seat and the tires a few weeks ago.

                The HERD Rawks!!

                Err... how long does a Sporty clutch last, theoretically..?









                **Note to Mods**
                Has anyone ever before in this sites history hijacked their won thread?
                Another first for the Monkey!

                Sporty clutch ??? sporties have a clutch ?? HHmmmm....LOL !!

                treat it right with good oil and you'll get a gazillion miles out of it.......50-60-70 K..........ride it

                Nice highjack by the way.....LOL !!
                U.S. Army "Retired"
                (Disabled Veteran)

                Comment


                • #9
                  Okay, Croc told me it's definitely time to get some new pads in there, or pads AND rotors in a coupla' months...

                  Think I'll go the pads route.

                  Gonna go with Kevlar, cause AFAIK, the 07 Sportsters did not have SS rotors. Can't find any info contrary to that position, anyway.


                  I've never been to an "easy" brake job...
                  Official Herd Dumbass
                  (Ask anybody)

                  MONK
                  Crocified '07 XL1200C
                  Herd #34

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Monk View Post
                    Okay, Croc told me it's definitely time to get some new pads in there, or pads AND rotors in a coupla' months...

                    Think I'll go the pads route.

                    Gonna go with Kevlar, cause AFAIK, the 07 Sportsters did not have SS rotors. Can't find any info contrary to that position, anyway.


                    I've never been to an "easy" brake job...
                    Good call on the Kevlar pads. you'll be happy with the performance.

                    and on the clutch lifespan ?

                    It's still working well I'm sure......LOL !!
                    U.S. Army "Retired"
                    (Disabled Veteran)

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Yeah, clutch feels good since we lubed the cable... I'm sure it needs adjusted under the derby, but when we tried to get the cover off, one'a those G-damned torx bolts thwarted us.
                      Osco says the adjustment is a no-brainer once you're in there. It'll get done too, shortly... Almost everything on the 15K checklist has been done so far. The bike is @ 14K now.
                      Official Herd Dumbass
                      (Ask anybody)

                      MONK
                      Crocified '07 XL1200C
                      Herd #34

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Monk View Post
                        Yeah, clutch feels good since we lubed the cable... I'm sure it needs adjusted under the derby, but when we tried to get the cover off, one'a those G-damned torx bolts thwarted us.
                        Osco says the adjustment is a no-brainer once you're in there. It'll get done too, shortly... Almost everything on the 15K checklist has been done so far. The bike is @ 14K now.
                        Good news........and as far as those damn torx head bolts? dump 'em and use allen heads.......they are soooooo much better....IMHO
                        U.S. Army "Retired"
                        (Disabled Veteran)

                        Comment

                        Working...
                        X