So i went to take my front pipe off and the nuts all came off crooked, who ever put them on, (me or the the guy that did the cam swap) cross threaded them on. Now i can't get any nuts to thread back on. What the hell do i do now?
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Originally posted by Eric The Welder View PostSo i went to take my front pipe off and the nuts all came off crooked, who ever put them on, (me or the the guy that did the cam swap) cross threaded them on. Now i can't get any nuts to thread back on. What the hell do i do now?
Spray with a good penetrating oil and let 'em sit overnight.
I'd like others to chime in on this one as well, so we have no mistakes.....Heads arent cheap........U.S. Army "Retired"
(Disabled Veteran)
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I have one of those blazer torches http://www.unbeatablesale.com/wtd192...m_term=WTD1928 that puts out a real good flame,I have used that torch for to heat aluminum components to remove froze in bolts/studs but it takes a while when You are heating aluminum as the aluminum is a good conductor so it transfers the heat away from the torch,this is the safest method.
A aceteleyne torch can be used but You will need to be extremely careful as aceteleyne gets hot enough to melt the aluminum and it would render the head into junk metal as soon as the first drip of aluminum fell out.You can turn on and light the aceteleyne only then blacken the area You will be heating,then turn on the oxygen,adjust the flame and start heating the aaluminum,when the black soot/carbon starts to burn off You are right there at about the maximum safe temperature for heating aluminum but I would definetely try it with the blazer torch first,it may take about twenty minutes to a 1/2 hour of heating time but You can keep trying to turn the stud as You are heating,the blazer torches can be purchased from an auto parts supplier such as carquest or NAPA.Ear Tag no. 00030
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Get a stud removing tool it will help to get them suckers out, heat is your best friend, heat the head carefully, do not heat the stud! Work stud back and forth to loosen them up then remove!
When you replace the studs, clean the holes out with a tap and blow out with air!!! Then hand thread new studs in, so you don't cross thread, double nut stud and tighten!OLD SKOOL BIKERS RULE, WE DO WHAT IT TAKES AND LIKE IT!!!
With age comes wisdom, yeah right!
FIRST "HERD BIKE OF THE MONTH CLUB MEMBER"
RIP Rick.....Ride On Forever In Our Hearts My Brother!
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Penetrating oil (I like "Tri-Flow") for a good long soak, then heat 'em up real good, then I'd probably try to grab one with a heavy vice-grip (but only 'cause I don't have a stud extractor at hand) and try to work it loose, then out... that ought'a do it.
One each from column A, B and C.
Dave'll probably be in with the right stuff if you can wait.Official Herd Dumbass
(Ask anybody)
MONK
Crocified '07 XL1200C
Herd #34
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Originally posted by Crocodile56 View PostGet a stud removing tool it will help to get them suckers out, heat is your best friend, heat the head carefully, do not heat the stud! Work stud back and forth to loosen them up then remove!
When you replace the studs, clean the holes out with a tap and blow out with air!!! Then hand thread new studs in, so you don't cross thread, double nut stud and tighten!
As a last resort they could be drilled out, but potential damage to the head makes that a bit risky.H1E2R8D
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The Blazer torch would not be a problem with the fuel tank.
After getting the old studs out I always coat the new studs with antiseize compound to make it easier for removal if I should have a problem later on in time.Ear Tag no. 00030
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Originally posted by Eric The Welder View PostNew nuts won't thread on, Where do I get the stud extractor?
If You can get a pair of vicegrips on the stud that will work too.
Some stud extractors take quite a bit of room to get them on so if space is limited then that may not work.
There is a stud extractor that is shaped like a socket and has a tapered/flat sided pin that fits into a hole in the side and those do`nt need as much room as the style with the serrated wheel that fits into the extractor.Ear Tag no. 00030
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Originally posted by MrMarty51 View PostThere is a stud extractor that is shaped like a socket and has a tapered/flat sided pin that fits into a hole in the side and those do`nt need as much room as the style with the serrated wheel that fits into the extractor.Official HERD Member #00144
Sponsored by: Rainrider
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Easy fix.....get a nut back on any way you can....even if you have to "chase" the threads with a thread die with a hex outside so you can turn it with a socket & ratchet.... don't use any oil.....then get the nut on so it is just about flush with the end of the stud....hit the end with a mig welder......so that the stud is securely fastened to the nut...let it cool for 5-10 minutes...do not cool it off with water, etc....then spray some pentrating oil on the stud at the point it threads into the head.....put a socket or wrench on the nut welded to the stud and slowly start backing it out....after moving it a little "jog" it back and forth..put on some more pentrating oil....unthread it out by using this method...after removing it...clean up the area with some contact cleaner...Install the new stud with some Loctite...Lee....... If ya ain't the lead dog... the view never changes....
Can weld anything but a broken heart
......It's a rebar thing.....
HERD member # 00015
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