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Brake light stuck on....

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  • Motive
    replied
    Oh yeah, I'll try to remember to take a pic of it, soon.

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  • Motive
    replied
    Originally posted by V-Girl View Post
    I have no idea what you are saying! LOL! Is there a question?
    It's more of a lessons learned type of gig.

    In essence Ironhead, the front switch works as push it, lights go off (open) release, lights go on (short)...which is the opposite of how the rear works. Keeping that in mind, before you rip your electrical system in half chasing a short that's supposed to be there if the switch isn't depressed. Yeah push on, one end, push off, the other.

    I superglued an eraser to my brake lever to make it press the switch in better...not exactly sure how it's not applying pressure on the switch anymore without a cheater nipple....nipple mmmm..., but it appears that it doesn't depress it even at full extension.

    Oh yeah, after finally washing my bike, I hit rain on the way home yesterday...it's back to being a grayish brown bike...oh yeah, a bandana wrapped around the forks, instead of a front fender, works great!
    Last edited by Motive; 06-08-2010, 08:08 AM.

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  • Ironhead
    replied
    I don't know the first thing about Vrods, but it sounds like a push on switch on one end and a push off swith ont he other end.

    now, how bout some pics to help me understand what you were saying about the eraser

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  • BigWorm
    replied
    thats a roger mo.

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  • V-Girl
    replied
    I have no idea what you are saying! LOL! Is there a question?

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  • Motive
    started a topic Brake light stuck on....

    Brake light stuck on....

    So, after 8 hours in the Texas heat.....

    I realized:

    My brake light wasn't stuck on due to the hydraulic switch

    I put a slight crimp in my rear brake line trying to break red Lock-tite.

    Vato-zone (Autozone) doesn't carry Loc-tite brand, but does have red thread lock.

    I will use a meter within the FIRST 4 hours of chasing an electrical problem, BEFORE yanking damned near everything off of the bike.

    Splitting the wire sheath on the bars to check for shorts will require either a new sheath, or some electrical tape...it will not simply slide back over it.

    Finally.....

    A short between the two connectors, that connect to the rear switch, is most likely to mean that the front brake switch is not depressed...which can be remedied with a cut-off pencil eraser and some superglue for a fraction of the cost of the rear brake switch, and some red thread locker...and be done in about 5 minutes.

    Apparently, the front switch works the opposite of the rear switch...the rear switch shorts the two conductors when the rear brake is depressed (or when there's sufficient hydraulic pressure) where-as the front switch is shorted when there is no pressure on it...in hindsight, it completely makes sense...

    Oh, and when supergluing the eraser to your clutch lever, make sure no superglue gets on the plunger for the front switch...apparently it rips quite easily....


    but I did, finally, wash my bike...piece by piece...before re-installing it.
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