So, after 8 hours in the Texas heat.....
I realized:
My brake light wasn't stuck on due to the hydraulic switch
I put a slight crimp in my rear brake line trying to break red Lock-tite.
Vato-zone (Autozone) doesn't carry Loc-tite brand, but does have red thread lock.
I will use a meter within the FIRST 4 hours of chasing an electrical problem, BEFORE yanking damned near everything off of the bike.
Splitting the wire sheath on the bars to check for shorts will require either a new sheath, or some electrical tape...it will not simply slide back over it.
Finally.....
A short between the two connectors, that connect to the rear switch, is most likely to mean that the front brake switch is not depressed...which can be remedied with a cut-off pencil eraser and some superglue for a fraction of the cost of the rear brake switch, and some red thread locker...and be done in about 5 minutes.
Apparently, the front switch works the opposite of the rear switch...the rear switch shorts the two conductors when the rear brake is depressed (or when there's sufficient hydraulic pressure) where-as the front switch is shorted when there is no pressure on it...in hindsight, it completely makes sense...
Oh, and when supergluing the eraser to your clutch lever, make sure no superglue gets on the plunger for the front switch...apparently it rips quite easily....
but I did, finally, wash my bike...piece by piece...before re-installing it.
I realized:
My brake light wasn't stuck on due to the hydraulic switch
I put a slight crimp in my rear brake line trying to break red Lock-tite.
Vato-zone (Autozone) doesn't carry Loc-tite brand, but does have red thread lock.
I will use a meter within the FIRST 4 hours of chasing an electrical problem, BEFORE yanking damned near everything off of the bike.
Splitting the wire sheath on the bars to check for shorts will require either a new sheath, or some electrical tape...it will not simply slide back over it.
Finally.....
A short between the two connectors, that connect to the rear switch, is most likely to mean that the front brake switch is not depressed...which can be remedied with a cut-off pencil eraser and some superglue for a fraction of the cost of the rear brake switch, and some red thread locker...and be done in about 5 minutes.
Apparently, the front switch works the opposite of the rear switch...the rear switch shorts the two conductors when the rear brake is depressed (or when there's sufficient hydraulic pressure) where-as the front switch is shorted when there is no pressure on it...in hindsight, it completely makes sense...
Oh, and when supergluing the eraser to your clutch lever, make sure no superglue gets on the plunger for the front switch...apparently it rips quite easily....
but I did, finally, wash my bike...piece by piece...before re-installing it.
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