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**Crocodile56** · 07-01-2010, 02:07 PM

Its a FORD, they run for ever.....................................but they still break down! That's cheap for all your doing!

**vlade** · 07-01-2010, 02:14 PM

Thats about the only way to do it just replacin one part or another and you end up with somethin like a clogged expasion valve in a couple monthse or a blown lineor old crapgets in a new compressor and screws it up,,,,,,,, yur expansion valve is most liely gonna be right before the high pressure line goes into the evaporator.

**gruss** · 07-01-2010, 02:16 PM

Right before evaporator...HHHmmmm
most likely will have a line crimp to prevent the valve from moving in the line I would guess.....I'l know by sundown tonight !....maybe....LOL !!

**gruss** · 07-01-2010, 02:18 PM

Originally posted by Crocodile56 View Post

Its a FORD, they run for ever.....................................but they still break down! That's cheap for all your doing!

It is pretty cheap. The compressor is a re-man with the new clutch, and comes with a 2 year 24k mile warranty, but damn I have to jump through alot of hoops not to void it, like the flush, and oil install by a certified shop, otherwise I'm hosed....

the compressor unit was only $135.00 with the clutch....

**vlade** · 07-01-2010, 02:23 PM

yea now the vaporator is the finny thing inside your truck the condensor is the finny thing in front of yur radiator Unless a GW scientist got ahold of it ..

**Crocodile56** · 07-01-2010, 02:23 PM

Did auto A/C for years, had 5 different certifications.................then they came out with the new law on feon, I just stopped right there! I ain't paying $15,000 out for feon recovery equipment!!! Now the equipment is cheap but you still gotta get certified each year!

**BigWorm** · 07-01-2010, 02:25 PM

Originally posted by gruss View Post

Right before evaporator...HHHmmmm
most likely will have a line crimp to prevent the valve from moving in the line I would guess.....I'l know by sundown tonight !....maybe....LOL !!

yes the line may be crimped or it could be where two lines come together. i've had to cut some fords to change the orfice tube then install a compression fitting. to bad you ain't closer i could do it all for you. when i was mechanicin' i was the A/C specialist at the shops i worked at, had my own for a few years but i got tired of hearing the public piss and moan about prices. any A/C job starts at 500$ and goes up from there. unless its and conversion from 12 to 134.

**gruss** · 07-01-2010, 02:33 PM

Originally posted by vlade View Post

yea now the vaporator is the finny thing inside your truck the condensor is the finny thing in front of yur radiator Unless a GW scientist got ahold of it ..

okay, I'm tracking now...Luckily its under the hood, and not to badly buried into the dash board like my '05.....It appears the it should be pretty accessible from my view....Thanks Vlade !

**gruss** · 07-01-2010, 02:35 PM

Originally posted by BigWorm View Post

yes the line may be crimped or it could be where two lines come together. i've had to cut some fords to change the orfice tube then install a compression fitting. to bad you ain't closer i could do it all for you. when i was mechanicin' i was the A/C specialist at the shops i worked at, had my own for a few years but i got tired of hearing the public piss and moan about prices. any A/C job starts at 500$ and goes up from there. unless its and conversion from 12 to 134.

Without any hickup's, I should be into the whole job for around 600 bucks.....I figured thats pretty cheap for the whole new deal....Now if I factor in my labor at about 200 bucks per hour, this job should cost me about $ 30,000......LOL !!!

Robbie, Croc, Vlade if I hit a snag, you may get a call....If your up to it.....

**jirvin** · 07-01-2010, 02:37 PM

I have owned Fords since I could drive and you said something I thought was impossible. "Ford and does not leak oil" :)

Glad you are getting it fixed up! A/C is cool! lol

**BigWorm** · 07-01-2010, 02:45 PM

10-4

**krcampbell** · 07-01-2010, 02:45 PM

Gruss, when you get all the components off blow the lines out before you install the new components.

**gruss** · 07-01-2010, 02:46 PM

Originally posted by jirvin View Post

I have owned Fords since I could drive and you said something I thought was impossible. "Ford and does not leak oil" :)

Glad you are getting it fixed up! A/C is cool! lol

It's true "J", Mom's is a '99 expedition with the automatic full time 4 wheel drive, and for real, not a single drip under it.....I've never been into the rear or front axles, tranny, transfer case, or motor.....Just religous oil changes on the motor at 3k, and I change the tranny and axle fluids ever 12k...She runs like new...I guess I should have changed out the AC oil every year too....LOL !!

I'll go way out here, and say it's the best SUV I've ever had the pleasure of getting dirty on....It's really a great truck with a car body on it....

**gruss** · 07-01-2010, 02:48 PM

Originally posted by krcampbell View Post

Gruss, when you get all the components off blow the lines out before you install the new components.

It's gonna get a complete system flush with the AC flush gun prior to the reload of PAG oil and R-134.....She'll be shiney inside...(I hope)

**BigWorm** · 07-01-2010, 02:52 PM

Originally posted by krcampbell View Post

Gruss, when you get all the components off blow the lines out before you install the new components.

good idea, i've used regular rubbing alkyhal and seen where its recommended to use denatured alky(never mattered to me) i'd by some flush secially designed for the job at hand. don't use carb or brake clean what ever you do.don't blow the whole system at one time , separate and blow each part cept fer the compressor. post a picture of the orfice tube and we can prolly tell you what went south. don't forget to replace the orings any where you break a line loose. if you don't have new orings you can turn the old one around and reuse it. it may work it may not....

**BigWorm** · 07-01-2010, 02:54 PM

when your re installing lines and or o-rings rub a little oil on the threads and or o-rings, don't want to install dry could damage threads and o-rings

**gruss** · 07-01-2010, 02:59 PM

Originally posted by BigWorm View Post

good idea, i've used regular rubbing alkyhal and seen where its recommended to use denatured alky(never mattered to me) i'd by some flush secially designed for the job at hand. don't use carb or brake clean what ever you do.don't blow the whole system at one time , separate and blow each part cept fer the compressor. post a picture of the orfice tube and we can prolly tell you what went south. don't forget to replace the orings any where you break a line loose. if you don't have new orings you can turn the old one around and reuse it. it may work it may not....

All parts came with the new "green" "O" rings...It would appear that the parts folks have a good kit put together for the re-fit.

And I do have the flush system lined up to do the entire system....My AC guy thats doing the "flush" work said he uses a power flush that isolates the new compressor so as not to contaminate the unit, as it's pre-filled with oil. He says he then blows down the lines with dried air to evaporate the flush chemicals out....He makes it sound pretty easy, but I guess it's having the right tools for the job....

Is any type of lube used on the "O" rings ? or do they all assemble dry ?

**gruss** · 07-01-2010, 03:00 PM

Oh, sorry Robbie, you answered my question before I posted it !
Man you are good !!!

Are you a "HERD" mind reader ?....or....LOL !

**BikerGeek** · 07-01-2010, 03:01 PM

Happy wife = happy life.

Courage.

Announcement

The '99 ford is gettin a new AC system !!!

The '99 ford is gettin a new AC system !!!

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